The Expat and the Cow Lady

by missfootloose on April 20, 2012 · 30 comments

in Expat foodie, Turkey

I travel a lot; I hate having my life disrupted by routine.  ~Caskie Stinnett

Dear readers, I may live the expat life in Moldova, but I keep footloosing it across its borders. I was in Italy in February, and here I am in the land of döner kebabı sandwiches, Mediterranean beaches and smiling people: Turkey.

Turkish market vendor

Smiling people everywhere!

We’re on the southwest coast in the small town of Koça Çaliş, with its stony beach, beautiful views and cows munching grass along the roads.

Sunshine, you ask? Well, yes, but some stormy weather and downpours as well; it is April after all, even in Turkey. The rain is said to come from Greece. From what I gathered, other unpleasant things are blamed on Greece as well, but I may have misunderstood the smiling man who spoke to us in a fabulously entertaining mix of English, Dutch and German.

This is my first visit to Turkey. I’m gobbling up the sounds, the sights and the food. My mate and I were lured to this place by Julia whose blog Turkey is for Life is a delicious mélange of posts about all the delights found in this area. Thank you, Julia!

From our rented house, I hear the waves of the Mediterranean wash ashore, doves cooing their love songs, and the call to prayer from a mosque. It’s all so peaceful and relaxing. Oranges hang like light bulbs from the trees. Mimosa is in full bloom. I’ve never seen mimosa before. Clearly I’ve been deprived.

Mimosa in Turkey
This morning I watched a woman pull a cow on a rope through the street. She was dressed in long, loose bloomers (salvar) and wore a headscarf knotted under her chin.

Turkish village woman

A few days ago I saw her sitting by the side of the road near our house, two cows munching the grass on a bare patch of land behind her. She was sitting on the ground, knees apart, knitting something bright pink. We exchanged a friendly merhaba and she offered a beautiful smile as we walked past her.

It occurred to me (being so profoundly philosophical for a weekday morning) that only the accident of birth separated us. Had I been born here in this small spot of Turkey, instead of Holland, I’d be wearing bloomers, tending cows and knitting something pink. I’d be going to the mosque rather than not going to church. Possibly I’d be perfectly content with my life as the woman seemed to be, but I would not have traveled the world, lived in many places, have the footloose life I have. I’d not even own a pair of jeans. Imagine that! I find these little thoughts humbling, don’t you?

As I look around me as we wander the streets or drive through the villages, I notice that everywhere in the coffee shops and outdoor cafés, groups of men are socializing, playing cards, drinking coffee or tea. Not a woman among them. Possibly my husband would be sitting there if I were a cow lady. Then again, he might be fixing the barn or plowing a field.

As always, the local market draws me like a fly to sugar. Mother Nature’s offerings appeal to me so much more than, say, the snack and soft drink aisles in a supermarket. The produce in the Fethiye market is stunning, the displays a delight to the eye. Nuts and spices make a work of art. The place is clean and cheery and no, not a fly in sight.

Turkish market

I love sitting in the pancake place in the market, eating a spinach and cheese gözleme while watching the women produce them one by one from scratch. Their efficiency and skill make a great show.

Turkish pancakes

Turkish pancakes, spinach and cheese filling

And then I’m thinking, I could have been a pancake lady rather that a cow lady if I’d been born here. Rolling dough, or making the filling or cooking the gözleme. And instead one of these women could be sitting here in my chair, a gawky tourist taking photos.

And if I were a Turkish pancake lady, or a cow lady, what would I think of Miss Footloose? Probably nothing at all. After all, she’s only a tourist.

(Yes, I’ve got more. Come back next week.)

* * *

Do you have any deep thoughts about being a tourist? Please offer me your two liras worth of philosophy or opinion. I can’t wait!

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[…] happy (and relieved) to report that they enjoyed their time here and she’s already written a post about their break to […]

Cathie
Guest
Cathie

Beautiful post. I tend to travel alone, and have done so through Europe, the ME and along the west coast of Africa. I have often thought the same in many of the countries I’ve visited. I am without doubt fortunate in the location of my birth. What travel has shown me is the reality of life and decisions is not black and white as the media would have you believe. Everything in life is about context, and people make choices based on a much wider picture than we see in more developed countries. I think it comes down to the… Read more »

inka
Guest

I am an expat in Turkey and was delighted to read your post. As for the philosophy: I just went on a trip to Cappadocia with Turkish old age pensioners. No other foreigner on the bus, only me and I was immediately ‘adopted’ like a long lost friend. Yes, it’s the small things which make all the difference.

ladyfi
Guest

Sounds so lovely and peaceful and rural.. .I could definitely be a cow lady as long as I can keep the cow until she dies (and not kill her for meat)…

Kelly
Guest

Thank you so much for showing such a lovely view of Turkey! I’ve Turkish friends I actually met playing online games, of all things, and I’ve been hoping for a chance to go visit someday.

Sonia Marsh/GutsyLiving
Guest

Now I know where you are. How come you get to travel so much? Too many vacations? Just kidding, but you know how few Americans leave home. How was the pancake? They look huge; enough for 3 people.
I also noticed that CocaCola bottle. What’s inside? Not iced tea, I’m sure.

Walter Knight
Guest

Well, someone has to watch that cow.

Grace @ Sandier Pastures
Guest

Oh I love this post! You just took me to Turkey with you!

Connie Chiwa
Guest
Connie Chiwa

Beautiful blog, thank you! Just off to Japan again , now six times! But six times to Turkey too….since the sixties ,mind you, but as recent as last year. We now enjoy renting cars and finding our own “hidden ” treasures….like the Datca road to Knidos and Palamat Boku or Ucagiz etc. and we do the same in Japan on Kyushu and Shikoku…
It’s easy, once you are underway everything follows…
cheers!

Ayngelina
Guest

I envy you for being so close to other cultures.

Interesting fact about East Coast Canada, we are the home to a twist on the doner – the donair. It`s the same idea of spiced ground beef on a spit that is shaved and put into a pita BUT we have donair sauce that is a mix of icing sugar, white vinegar and condensed milk. Sounds disgusting but is a true East Coast treat that you cannot find in Western Canada.

edj
Guest

I used to often have that “there but for the grace of God go I” kind of thought in Mauritania, watching even the better-off women walk down the street, their worlds made up almost entirely of their families and tribes, knowing little of the life of the mind. It’s humbling, isn’t it?

And I want to go to Turkey too! 🙂

Mara
Guest

Deep thoughts? Nope, can’t help you on that.

You keep talking about being a cow lady or a pancake lady. What about being Prime Minister of Turkey? There was one you know: a woman PM! You could have been it if you had been born in Turkey!!

Jack Scott
Guest

It’s always a relief when we Turkey bloggers encourage people to visit our fosterland and, when they do, they actually like it!

Cally
Guest

What a wonderful post! Thoughtful, evocative, beautiful photos. I’m so glad Julia tempted you to Fethiye and then let us know you’d posted about it. I will certainly be back to read more. As for deep thoughts… I’m on deep thought overload having been recently offered the chance to do exactly that – swap my life in Scotland for a life in Fethiye (having reconnected with a long lost love). So reading this post got right to the heart of my current thoughts. I too loved the juxtaposition of the coke bottle and pancake making, though I’m guessing from the… Read more »

Turkey's For Life
Guest

Great to meet you! So good to put real life faces to photo faces and writing. Glad you enjoyed your time being a tourist in Turkey and we’ll be enjoying being out and out, unashamed tourists next week, too – that’s right after we’ve had a meet-up with the lady above, Joy. What a coincidence. 🙂 Nice to be a blogger.
Julia

Joy (My Turkish Joys)
Guest

Gözleme is one of my favorite Turkish street foods! We often enjoy ours on Saturday mornings while shopping at the pazar in our neighborhood. Enjoy your travels in Turkey!

There are so many wonderful places to visit and ancient ruins to see. We are off to see the 17-th century Ottoman houses in Safranbolu this weekend. Can’t wait!

Jenn B
Guest
Jenn B

I love the juxtaposition of the Coca Cola bottle while the ladies are making the pancakes! That look fabulous, but the way, I want one!

Judy
Guest

I’ve often thought … “There but for an accident of birth …” not just when travelling but also at home. It’s a good thought to have. In fact just 2 days ago I heard Gen. Rick Hillier speak (former Chief of Canadian Defense). He’s a lively guy, a Newfie with a wicked sense of humour and probably a great person to have a beer with. His opening line was “Didn’t we all win the lottery? To be here living in Canada?” As someone who’s seen a lot of tough situations, I know he spoke from the heart.

bettyl
Guest

I love your photos! Everything is so colorful. Sorry, no deep thoughts to offer.

Pat
Guest

Interesting thought about random luck determining into which place, culture and family we are born. It will certainly inspire me to look at the locals in a new light on my next X-pat adventure. No immediate travel plans on the horizon, so I will look forward to your next adventure.

Kathy
Guest

This is awesome. Those pancakes make me hungry!!

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